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Isaac Mizrahi Documentary ‘Unzipped’ Back in Theaters

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For journalists, being romantically involved with your subject treads a tricky ethical line. In documentary filmmaking, it can lead to a generously personal and intimate perspective on your subject.

Filmmaker and photographer Douglas Keeve was dating then-rising fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi when he made his 1995 documentary “Unzipped,” back in theaters this weekend in 4K from Janus Films. This vérité portrait of a charmingly frenetic mind follows Mizrahi as he mounts his 1994, “Nanook of the North”-inspired collection during Paris Fashion Week. At the time, Chanel owned a majority financial stake in the Isaac Mizrahi fashion house that crafted sensibly chic haute couture — and a decade before Mizrahi became best known not only for his outré personality and “Eraserhead”-like shock of hair, but eventually his ready-to-wear diffusion line in Target stores.

Restored by the Sundance Institute and UCLA Film & Television Archive, “Unzipped” is a transportive chronicle of the early-1990s New York fashion world in miniature. Runway models featured in the film (and in a colorful range of moods and on-camera savviness) include Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and Kate Moss. Younger folks laser-beamed into ’90s New York nostalgia by “Love Story: John F. Kennedy & Carolyn Bessette” and its panoply of Parliament cigarettes and Calvin Klein denim will find much to love about Keeve’s partly in-color but mostly black-and-white doc.

And, yes, he was dating Mizrahi at the time. Their relationship curdled soon after “Unzipped” premiered at the 1995 Sundance Film Festival, where it won an audience award, but the documentary isn’t the thing that broke them in half, exactly.

“Did the movie break us up? I’m not sure I know how to answer that because relationships are so complicated,” Keeve told IndieWire. “Isaac is complicated, I’m complicated. So you have two complicateds, plus a complicated world. Our lives were so different, and in some ways I couldn’t quite keep up with his. Isaac goes to two cocktails at dinner and an after-hours party in one night, every night. And I just couldn’t do that. I had my own working life, and it was busy. He wanted a partner who could share those things, which I think is correct. There was so much external pressure from different things.”

Unzipped
‘Unzipped’Janus Films

He continued, “The movie came in, and the movie had nothing to do with our breakup at all. There was pressure around finishing the movie because we had a deadline, but I was so in love with Isaac and in love with just who he is. The movie is — I hate to say it because when you make a movie like that, it just becomes utter rubbish — but it is a love letter to him, I think, because he’s just so extraordinary.”

“Unzipped” is not always a flattering portrait. Mizrahi can be a burst of benign volatility, but it’s not anger. It’s a certainty in what he wants. In one scene, he gets deeply flummoxed over a rival house’s “eskimo”-inspired fashion line that’s just a tad similar to his own. Meanwhile, he’s also just modeled his show’s hair and makeup after Loretta Young in 1935’s “The Call of the Wild.” She’s supposed to be frozen and near death, but instead she’s all glammed up, ready to be rescued by a handsome savior.

“We’ve always been frenemies, and I still love Isaac. He’s amazing,” Keeve said, who’s promoting the documentary re-release, whose restoration he supervised, alongside his ex.

“I wouldn’t show Isaac the movie when we were editing it at all, and only when I was happy with it, I brought it to him,” Keeve said. “There may be those moments in the movie that may seem like I’m shooting him in the bathtub and exploiting him, but I just always had a camera, and Isaac is somewhat oblivious to the camera in a way. He just is one of those people who is in the zone all the time. … What’s more shocking is that I could walk into the bathroom and film him, and he’s on the phone with his mother, and he doesn’t really notice me. And I would’ve been screaming at him like, ‘Get the hell out of here.’”

And yes, Mizrahi’s very Jewish mother Sarah is a main character in “Unzipped,” affably looming and wanting to impose her input on her son’s vision.

“They had that typical Jewish mother relationship, which is incredibly close, probably mama’s-boy close, and yet incredibly fraught, as I guess stereotypical Jewish mothers are. The thing that Fran Leibowitz says is that stereotypes tend to be true. So she said it, not me, but she was a wonderful woman, and I liked her very much,” Keeve said.

The models in the film, meanwhile, run the spectrum from docile to diva — including Evangelista, who’s entreating the camera with an impish smile even while having a little fit backstage.

“There are a lot of people who say that Linda is the greatest fashion model who ever lived, and it’s arguable, but Linda in the show, where she’s having a hissy fit, and then another hissy fit, and then another hissy fit, to me, I can see that she knows exactly what to do. She’s turning it on for the camera,” Keeve said. “She’s not so much that person, but she knows we’re making a movie, and she knows that. Linda said, ‘I have to bring it,’ so she did. … She just turns to the camera, and she gives this look like she’s just staring at the camera like, ‘I dare you to judge me or whatever,’ and then she turns away. For me, that’s an incredible moment.”

Keeve added about supervising the restoration, “When I’m watching the movie, I’m not really looking at the technical part of the film about how the diamond has been polished even more. I’m really seeing those moments and feeling those feelings.”

“Unzipped” is now playing at Film Forum in New York with an expansion to follow, including Los Angeles on October 9.

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CNN, MS NOW and Politico Seek to Extend White House Access Order, Warn Trump Will ‘Reinstitute a Complete Ban’ Without It

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CNN, MS NOW and Politico Seek to Extend White House Access Order, Warn Trump Will ‘Reinstitute a Complete Ban’ Without It – TheWrap







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Kimmel Channels Trump, Promises $5K to Audience If Guillermo Wins ‘DWTS’

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Kimmel Channels Trump, Promises $5K to Audience If Guillermo Wins ‘DWTS’







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CNN, MS NOW And Politico Warn That Trump Will Revive “A Complete Ban”

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CNN, MS NOW and Politico are warning that the Trump administration will reimpose a “complete ban” on their access to the White House without a judge issuing a preliminary injunction.

Last week, U.S. District Judge Timothy Kelly granted a temporary restraining order, forcing the White House to restore access to the White House to the outlets as he more fully considers the legal arguments. The TRO lasts for 14 days.

In a filing in federal court on Monday, attorneys for the three news outlets argued that the Trump White House actions since then “leave little doubt that it will immediately reinstitute a complete ban of CNN, MS NOW, and Politico if allowed the opportunity.”

The outlets’ legal team, led by Theodore Boutrous Jr., pointed to the White House’s restriction on CNN from access to State Dinner arrivals on Thursday evening. The network then was barred from serving as TV pooler on Air Force One on Trump’s trip to Tennessee on Saturday, with no replacement stepping in, and leaving a dearth of TV images from the trip.

“Because the ban is an unlawful assault on the most fundamental First Amendment freedoms and will inflict irreparable harm on Plaintiffs and the public if not restrained, this Court should preliminarily enjoin its enforcement pending the resolution of this case,” the news outlets’ attorneys wrote.

Kelly cited a lack of due process by the White House when it pulled dozens of credentials of reporters from the three outlets. While the Trump DOJ has cited standards of “professionalism and decorum” and national security concerns, the media outlets’ legal team called that reasoning that “pretextual” and “post hoc,” as well as vague.

In the latest brief, CNN, MS NOW and Politico also again cited violations of the First Amendment. They noted that Trump has explained the ban by blaming their coverage as “Purposely … negative,” among other things.

“His statements also make clear he implemented the ban to coerce more favorable coverage from CNN, MS NOW, and Politico, and to deter other journalists and news organizations from newsgathering and reporting that the President might view as negative,” the news outlets’ legal team wrote. “And his administration has continued to retaliate against Plaintiffs even after the temporary restraining order, only underscoring that Defendants’ motive is to punish and chill journalism they dislike.”

The outlets are asking the judge to prohibit the Trump team from pulling hard pass credentials, or to ensure the reporters of the White House access they had before Sept. 18. In contrast to a TRO, a preliminary injunction would sideline Trump’s ban until a trial is held, or if an appeals court rules otherwise.

Trump initially banned the three outlets on Sept. 18. When the judge granted a TRO last early Thursday, it meant that the White House had to restore hard passes, with reporters not gaining reentry until around noon that day.

The issue of whether the White House can also restrict CNN from the pool is a slightly different, but related issue. It’s also one at the center of another case, involving the Associated Press after it was banned from the pool and other White House events. That case is currently on appeal.

That said, in the latest brief, the three outlets cited the White House’s continued prohibitions on CNN as an example of White House retaliation over protected speech.

For much of last week, there was no TV network pool, meaning that there was little video coverage of Chinese President Xi Jinping’s visit to the White House. The four other networks in the pool — CBS News, ABC News, Fox News and NBC News — initially suspended their participation in protest of the exclusion of CNN. The networks resumed the TV pool coverage this week, but it will be put to the test again on Thursday, when CNN is assigned to that duty.

“Every day, critically important news is breaking at the White House, and the ban will substantially interfere with Plaintiffs’ ability to cover it,” the outlets brief stated. “The ban also inflicts an injury on all news media organizations—which now risk a similar fate if they engage in fact-based, independent reporting the President deems insufficiently favorable.”

The DOJ’s brief in response is due by Friday.

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